The woman lies sleeping on her bed. The child, presumably a daughter, is transfixed by her mother’s face as she tugs at the string holding her mask in place. Visually and historically striking, this painting gets us talking …

Why the mask?

Who wears such a mask?

When was this painted?

Is this the norm?

Does it still happen?

Who painted this?

And so, we learn.

We learn not just about this painting, but we learn about other related things – relationships, cultures, families, clothing, politics, religion, history, and so forth.

We also learn about ourselves.

We come to understand how this beautiful oil painting possibly reflects the artist’s personal experience in chronicling an era in which he was raised. In doing so, such art fosters cultural dialogue.

In all likelihood, the child is seeing her mother’s face for the first time, since the Battoulah (mask) is worn by women to signify their married status. Rarely, if ever, was the Battoulah removed – even at home. Hence, the child’s look of wonderment, and ours too, since we’ve been raised in a very different environment.

Art at the heart of Qatar

In Qatar, modern art, public art, sculptures, street art, visual arts, pop art, paintings, calligraphy … regardless of the genre, art is at the heart of efforts to entrench its national identity.

But, as I have come to appreciate during my 18 months of living in Qatar, the prolific presence of art helps to build a greater understanding and tolerance among people.

With 121 different nationalities living in Qatar, and the Qataris in the minority (they make up only 10 to 12% of the population of the 2.8 million presently resident here), achieving both these aims is equally commendable and important.

(As an aside, the way I see it, is that Qatar will not achieve its Vision 2030 goals without the expertise and hard work of people from around the world. Therefore, it is in their best interest to create an environment of cultural tolerance and understanding.)

And we all know that images often speak louder than words, strategies and plans.

Art museums

In Qatar, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to art museums. All fall under the pro-active, professional and prolific Qatar Museums as a “cultural instigator”.

The organisation does indeed have as its mission preserving and enlarging Qatar’s cultural endowment.

Please check out the Qatar Museums website for details.

This blog post, however, focuses on just two because both really get the cultural entrenchment and conversations going. They are:

• Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, and
• The Fire Station Museum

Art seasons

The best time for viewing art in Qatar is during the cooler months (October to December and then from February to early May).

This is generally when all the temporary exhibitions “come to town”.

However, the height of summer when outdoor activities are simply not possible, is also a good time to visit. It provides a health alternative to the shopping malls with their mass entertainment sections.

Qatar Museums, Visit Qatar and Marhaba news supply regular updates on what is happening where when it comes to arts, culture and heritage in Qatar.

Art critic disclaimer

Let me state from the outset, I am no art critic.

You, neither?

Well, that’s a relief.

I take it, however, that you are willing to learn. After all, you have read this far. Even if you haven’t done so, and have glanced at the photographs and their captions, hopefully it has you thinking, mulling, pondering and reflecting on just how rich and varied our world is …

To be fair, I confess that I had shied from visiting any museum with “modern art” in its title simply because of my own naïve and pre-conceived ignorance that all would be too abstract and strange to understand or appreciate.

Mathaf: Museum of Modern Art

A 45-minute guided tour by a young Qatari art historian and all that was on view has helped to put this notion aside.

It also fast-tracked my appreciation of Arabic art and artists.

Remember, art is there to get you thinking, talking, understanding. It helps to build bridges.

At Mathaf, which is Arabic for museum, there are 12 galleries in the permanent exhibition, and another seven spaces for the temporary exhibitions that come and go throughout the traditional “art seasons” in Qatar.

The galleries are thematically curated and cleverly laid out, with each artwork accompanied by a brief descriptor of the artist and the art.

However, there is nothing to beat a backstory.

And that’s where our guide, Aisha, gently educated us with stories about the artwork and artists. It also allowed us, as two South Africans and a Singaporean, to inquire about the Qatari culture generally.

So, where possible, ask for a tour.

I have included some of the artworks and their stories in this post, but of course there are more. 

This museum is tucked away in Education City which, as a concept full of interesting architecture, is well worth a visit all by itself. Hopefully, it will be a post for another day.

Free to see

Entry to most of these museums is free to Qatar residents. That’s anyone who has a permanent residency permit. Visitors usually pay in the region of QAR50 (R250).

But as anyone who has visited Doha, Qatar, will confirm, the public art – the sculptures, murals, artworks, graffiti and the like – are on display throughout the city and well beyond. The desert installations are particularly fascinating, along with the surrounding landscape.

By way of example, when it comes to public art, you don’t even have to leave the country’s airport. A giant yellow teddy and equally iconic golden falcon welcome all visitors to Qatar.

The Fire Station Museum

 The Fire Station is a landmark in Doha.

Its role as a hub for nurturing up-and-coming artists is significant too as shown in its art residency programme.

The Present, The Future and The Past exhibition runs until mid-December 2023.  

 

I felt like at was back at Nelson Mandela University’s end-of-year exhibitions by the Bachelor of Visual Art students in terms of enjoying the emerging potential showcased in the work on display.

Bar one big difference.

As with most things in Doha, Qatar, finances are no obstacle.

The talented here appear to have access to the best materials, and in this case, it includes cutting edge technologies like artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR).

A visit to this gallery is an immersive experience too.

But again, let’s allow the photographs to do the talking and seek to change the landscape of your mind.

It certainly has mine.

General info

While you should visit any museum with an open mind, intent on learning a thing or three, there are other matters you should know ahead of your visit:

• It’s best to get your tickets ahead online, even if they are free as a resident
• Check opening and closing times (these change during during Ramadan and on Fridays)
• Dress modestly (respect the culture)
• Avoid carrying big bags (you will have to hand them over at the entry point)
• Be prepared to use QR codes for explanations, but almost always when accessing a menu
• Don’t expect security staff to be able to answer your questions (they’re only there to protect the displays)
• No children under 12 are allowed unless accompanied by an adult
• Bring extra money for eats, drinks and gift shop items (sometimes there are sales)
• Always be ready for an interactive opportunity

(On that point – that of sport – I will be focusing on culture of another sort in a future blog post with a reflection on what it is like to be a South African in Qatar, especially when your team is playing in the Rugby World Cup).