We may live in swish surrounds, earn good money and feel oh-so-safe in Qatar, but our hearts still yearn for South Africa.
I know I am not alone. With some 6 500 Saffers living the ex-pat life here in Doha, I know I am far from the only one missing the bush, braai fires, family, besties, the lingo, wildlife, our sport, humour, hospitality, slops, rusks, our shared experiences and everything else that makes South Africa special.
Fortunately, there’s a salve of sorts for that which we miss while living in the Middle East.
This Band-Aid for homesickness comes in various guises – but especially in the form of food, the presence of fellow South Africans and a mutual love of sport.
After almost three years in the Land of Sand, this post seeks to pay tribute to those South Africans whose blood remains Springbok green while living in Qatar.
Like the bomb squad
Like our infamous rugby bomb squad, South Africans living in Qatar tend to make their presence felt.
While there may only be 6 500 of us out of a population of 3 million, we, in keeping with sporting analogies, tend to punch above our weight.
I like to believe we make an impact – and a positive one, at that.
In short, South Africans, or Saffers as we are colloquially known, generally have a good reputation (yes, I know I am biased, but it is true) among the 121 different nationalities who live here.
Reputation of South Africans in Qatar
South Africans are recognised as hard workers with the added ability of working with people across all cultures and faiths. (This is what others with no affiliation to our country have told me.)
Our strong work ethic is further complemented by our sense of humour. Nothing seems to get us down, they say. (I guess our turbulent shared history has made us as such.) We laugh (often at ourselves), we’re friendly and always enjoy a party or a braai (barbecue).
And so, generally, we’re well liked.
South Africa’s stance on the Gaza genocide through the International Court of Justice has also positively raised our profile among the locals in Qatar.
Oh, and not forgetting our sporting prowess.
South Africans and sport
Every Uber driver in Qatar salutes our cricketers, while every Six Nation supporter begrudgingly acknowledges our dominance on the world rugby stage.
This on-field sporting reputation plays itself out as avid supporters at all sporting events in Qatar.
South Africans flock to the country’s sports events.
You’ll find us at the MotoGP wearing our Springbok shirts and carrying our flags in support of the Binder brothers.
But equally, South Africans attend the tennis champs, the Formula One Grand Prix and any other world-class event. If we aren’t unashamedly wearing the green and gold, you’ll spot South Africans in their K-Way clothing or tried-and-tested slops and shorts.
(We often play the guessing game in trying to spot other South Africans in the midst of so many nationalities.)
And of course you will hear the unmistakable cheers or cries of despair in a language and accent that virtually catapults you straight back to your homeland.
Eish! There’s nothing like an “Ag, nee, man” or an “Aikhona” to choke me up!
Where else you will find us
Nowhere is national fervor more evident than when the Boks are playing rugby. With no easy access to the TV channels we miss, it’s off to the pub we go … along with other South Africans.
SuperSport is suddenly back in our lives – along with Siya, Eben and Cheslyn, and our favourite South African brands during the commercial breaks. Be it Checkers Sixty60, Nandos, Outsurance or Spur, we’re nostalgic for all that we miss.
Sometimes there are so many Springbok supporters, it feels like home … except we’re in an Irish pub, 32 floors above the Gulf sea.
And since we’re a friendly lot, we chat to each other and almost always discover a connection or three back in Mzansi.
So you will also find us:
- In the pubs at international hotels
- At South African restaurants like Ocean Basket and Nandos
- Checking out the South African produce available at the local supermarket
- At church
- At the South African Embassy, and
- At Bok Town when the Springboks are playing rugby. Bok Town happens at various venues around Doha
South African Heritage Day in Qatar
This year, the 30th year of our democracy, Bok Town doubled up to host both a game and a special South African Heritage Day.
Picture the scene … rolling lawns, palm trees swaying in the breeze, the smell of braai fires, the sounds of Mandoza’s Nkalakatha and laughter, lots of it.
You’re in a desert but everywhere it’s green. That’s rolling verdant green lawns and Springbok green shirts.
It’s a surreal moment sitting back in your camp chair surrounded by South Africans at a golf course with a big screen before you and the prospect of another Springbok rugby victory ahead of you.
There were about 500 of South Africans at the Doha Golf Club that day – celebrating 30 years of democracy at a belated Heritage Day in Doha.
And yes, we did win the rugby, beating Argentina 48 – 7, while also connecting with fellow South Africans.
This wasn’t a once-off event, but part of ongoing efforts under the Bok Town banner of rugby gatherings to grow the South African community in Qatar.
A shout-out to the South Africans who have voluntarily reached out to the South African Embassy and South Africa brands, like Nandos, to make such events happen.
Thanks to you, we’re able to get our South African food fix!
Food – ons gaan nou braai
South Africans living in Qatar tend to lug their favourite, favourites back to their newfound homes.
Five Roses tea, Ouma rusks, Peppermint Crisps, Pronutro, Knik Naks … you name it, and it gets pushed into the recesses of our luggage. No alcohol, or pork products, mind you, as these are not allowed in public places in Qatar. You can, however, buy a drink in an international hotel or get a special licence to purchase your favourite dop.
Savannah’s and South African wines are popular with all nations, too. For more read: Doha dry?
Fortunately, if we forget said products, there’s the Spar at Tawar Mall and a couple of entrepreneurial Saffers, who always seem to have a constant supply of South African treats.
The South African manager at the Spar branch even sells biltong and droe wors.
South African fruits, vegetables and meat also make a proud showing at many of the larger supermarket chains, which is why we are never short of oranges, lemons and beef. Boerewors is almost always on sale at our local CarreFour.
We also make our own – melktert, malva pudding, babotie and the like are all regularly made in the Derry household.
And, of course, ons gaan nou braai. For those whose blood is not green, this means “we will now barbecue.”
Staying connected
There are various WhatsApp and social media groups that support South Africans living in Qatar.
The SA Community in Doha (WhatsApp), South Africans in Qatar and Official South Africans in Qatar (Facebook) are among the most popular ones.
It’s here that South Africans help one another responding to questions that mainly pertain to living in Qatar around the likes of:
- Banking
- Visas
- Accommodation
- Jobs
- Pets
- Schools
- Residency permits
- Shipping container costs
- Sporting events
There are posts that make recommendations about doctors, hairdressers, dentistry etc and others that offer items for sale, especially when preparing to leave Qatar.
Because, ultimately, that is what we all do … leave Qatar and, for most us, happily return home to South Africa.
I am so jealous that you have an Ocean Basket!
Take care Debbie, sounds wonderful.
A great ‘read’, thank you!
South Africans have a lot to be grateful for!
I always think about my overseas friend’s & family when I smell a Braai!!
Can’t believe it has been 3 years already! Keep well, you looking fabulous!
Love your posts.
👍 👌 Wonderful posts Debbie 😍 💖
Love your stories, such heart, such great memories created